How can I get rid of speakers

Repair speakers: breathe new life into old speakers in just 6 steps

Before you order the first spare parts for repairing the loudspeakers cheaply online or buy them from specialist retailers, an inventory should be made to see what needs to be repaired or replaced. Then you can see what it will cost to restore the speakers and whether it is worth it at all. If in doubt, contact your trusted technology specialist for an experienced purchase advice.

2.1. Step 1: Inventory and assessment of the damage

A defective connection terminal must be replaced.

Before you start repairing speaker boxes, the current condition should be checked and the costs checked. This primarily includes the Sound test and control of the loudspeakers. If a membrane is torn, it is rarely worth repairing and a replacement can only be found with a little luck.

If a loudspeaker (often the large bass loudspeaker) buzzes, it can two causes to have. Either it has been overloaded or there is dirt in the oscillating area of ​​the voice coil. It is easy to check why it is.

Place your fingertips in a circle on the middle area and gently press the membrane inwards several times. If nothing can be heard, the membrane can be moved easily, the speaker is overloaded and defective.

If the wood of the box is damaged, it must be replaced or filled.

It crunches and scratches when moving the membrane, if there is dirt or rust in the vibration area. By turning the loudspeaker and moving the membrane at the same time, such dirt can in many cases be removed and the loudspeaker is ready for use again.

Are the speakers okay it's almost always worth itto repair the loudspeaker boxes and the required work materials can be listed.

  • Furniture foil or paint is required for a new, appealing surface. Furniture foil has a clear advantage here, as the structure surface (with a wood look) absorbs slight unevenness and the finished loudspeaker boxes quickly look like new.
  • If the wood of the box is damaged, it must be replaced or filled. In almost all cases, however, chipboard was glued together so that it was difficult or impossible to replace it. The damage is mostly limited to swollen or chipped corners - filling is almost always the better choice here.
  • Regardless of where loudspeaker boxes are used, the first damage is usually to be found on the covering, the acoustic fabric. So it has to be replaced. Never use any other substitute for this. Only acoustic fabric is designed to influence the sound waves as minimally as possible.
  • Other possible small parts that have to be replaced frequently are the connection terminals, the rubber feet and possibly bass reflex tubes. All small parts are available for little money on Amazon or Ebay. In the specialist trade you have to pay significantly more for it.

Detached veneer must be touched up. | You must replace the acoustic fabric if, for example, there is water damage.

Tip: Once the spare parts list has been drawn up, the costs can be calculated. Here's a little tip: Find online shops where you can get all the spare parts you need. Even if a part is more expensive from this supplier, the savings on shipping costs can be enormous.

  • View connection terminal for loudspeakers on

2.2. Step 2: dismantling the speaker boxes

The speakers and attachments must be removed.

If you remove the large bass speakers and put them to one side, take care not to damage the membrane. It makes sense to put two loudspeakers on top of each other and connect them with cable ties through the mounting holes.

Please note that the restoration of the loudspeaker boxes can take a few days and the loudspeakers during this time safely stored Need to become. While it is common today that the technology should be as small as possible and, if possible, not to be seen, loudspeaker boxes used to be built to be conspicuous. This has the advantage that the loudspeakers are placed in the cover from the outside.

These can be easily removed by removing the screws. Only the cables to the crossover are laid behind the cover and have to be separated. To be on the safe side, take a photo or make a note of the color assignments. The cables can then be loosened with a soldering iron.

Secure the speaker with zip ties. | Make a note of the correct connections by photographing them in advance.

2.3. Step 3: Remove the old coating (veneer or paint)

Rough sanding of the surface is sufficient.

Once all add-on parts and the loudspeakers have been removed, the surface can be processed further. For this it is primarily necessary that the old veneer is removed, which is not always easy.

Areas already loosened by water damage can be easily peeled off, but the rest almost requires physical effort and a sturdy spatula.

Depending on the glue used, a hot air gun can also be advantageous. Here, however, should especially careful proceed as the old and often very dry wood can be damaged quickly.

In many cases, the front of the loudspeaker boxes is only painted and a rough grinding of the surface is sufficient, with which swollen corners can also be adjusted. If damaged corners have to be filled, it is sufficient to remove paint from the filler surfaces. The entire surface is only smoothed after filling.

2.4. Step 4: filling damaged areas

Damaged corners are roughly filled.

Filling wood or other workpieces is seen as an obstacle for many, but this is only because it has never been tried. The use of filler is quite easy and errors can be edited retrospectively at any time.

Special wooden spatulas or 2-component universal spatulas, such as those used for bodywork, can be used. This is easy to process, is not very expensive and dries very quickly, so that you can work quickly and sometimes you have to. It is available in almost every hardware store in the automotive department, but also online at Amazon or other retailers. The cost is 10 € (or more) for a kilo, which is usually more than enough. Anyone who has ever started to work with 2K putty will certainly find other areas of application.

As the name suggests, 2K filler consists of two components - the filler and a hardener, which is housed in the lid of the can in the picture. The exact mixing ratio can be found in the instructions. It is certainly not easy to keep this mixing ratio exactly, but that is not tragic either.

You can roughly estimate how much has been removed from the can for which amount the small tube has to be enough. A little more or less doesn't hurt. The putty only hardens a little faster or slower. In the worst case the hardener is not sufficient for the entire contents of the can and some material is lost unused. Nothing more can happen.

The dried remains can be sanded later.

To use the filler, it must be removed from the can with a spatula and placed on a board or something similar. A sturdy piece of stainless steel sheet metal has proven to be very practical. The leveling compound can be mixed well on the smooth surface and dried-on residues can simply be sanded off later.

The putty mixes quite well with the hardener by picking up the compound with the putty knife and smearing it over the edge of the sheet in the same place. This is repeated for so longuntil you can clearly see that the pink hardener has mixed well with the filler. Now the application can already be made on the wood.

The filler can be applied with a wide spatula or, even better, with a Japanese spatula. Japan spatulas consist of a very thin sheet of metal that can be easily drawn over surfaces and contours. The thin sheet metal even allows wafer-thin layers of filler to be applied to surfaces.

However, if corners are badly damaged, they have to be rebuilt, which requires a bit of skill. A second spatula is helpful here, which is applied on one side, while the other can be used to press filler to the missing corner. Then slowly pull the second spatula used over the remaining wooden surface.

The corner will not be perfect straight away, as the filler gives way and also slips together a little. However, that doesn't hurt. Do not try too long to perfectly shape the corner, because filler dries very quickly and can no longer be processed. Work in several passes.

After the putty has dried, you can start sanding.

Filler should only be mixed to the extent that it can then be used. With a little practice everything works faster and consumption can also be estimated more easily. So do not despair if everything does not work as expected in the beginning. Simply let the filler dry on the wood and then sand the surface.

The first build-ups of the corners initially look little like a corner, but this can already change during sanding. To do this, however, wait until the filler has completely dried. If there are visible lumps on the emery cloth or sandpaper, the filler is still too soft. It is well dry when the sanding dust trickles down as a white powder.

An orbital sander is particularly suitable for sanding, as it offers a large, hard support surface. This is placed on the wood and the filler at the same time and guided evenly over the surface in circular movements. This should include part of the sanding surface lie on the wood if possible and specify the correct position of the grinding surface. In this way, the leveled surface can be precisely adapted to the wood and forms a straight extension. Sanded on all three sides, the corner should be easy to work out again.

It is of course hardly possible to reshape the entire corner with the first application of filler. Therefore, after the first drying and a grinding process takes place another order that closes the remaining holes and, if necessary, a spatula application again. This process is repeated until the ground surface no longer has any holes and the missing corner has formed again.

At the same time, other damage and the old mounting holes of the bass speakers are also filled. The more is filled in one pass, the fewer work breaks there are. While the last mass is being applied, the first of the pass can dry and then be sanded.

  • View wooden filler on

2.5. Step 5: surface design and assembly

Furniture foil has proven itself as a potential surface.

After everything has been filled and sanded, the surface can be processed. Which surface you choose is of course up to your taste. The use of furniture foil with a wood pattern has proven itselfwhich is available in many colors.

Your advantage lies in a finely structured surface, through which slight unevenness can hardly be seen. The use of high-gloss film certainly offers a very special look, but the surface must be used for this extremely smooth and precise be. Even the finest dirt particles stand out very clearly under the film.

When setting up, all cables of the crossover have to be soldered again, whereby the initial photo can certainly be very helpful. Make sure that no component is loose in the speaker housing, hits the wood and transmits noises.

If, as pointed out, the screw connections of the bass loudspeakers were also filled, they now have to be screwed in a little twisted so as not to let the rather brittle filler burst. The advantage is naturalthat the screws have new fastening holes and can be tightened again.

2.6. Step 6: Cover the front with acoustic fabric

Loose spots can be re-glued.

In many cases, the front or the acoustic fabric is the first thing that suffers during “use” and shows this visibly through cracks. A replacement may be necessary even without a fundamental restoration. Although such large loudspeaker boxes can hardly be hidden, not everyone likes the sight of the bare loudspeakers. Even large loudspeaker boxes look a little more discreet behind a covering with acoustic fabric.

Before the new fabric can be pulled up, the old one must of course be removed. Since this is mostly just glued, only one needs to be removed little effort.

A staple gun is required to attach the acoustic fabric.

If the fabric was clicked on by means of a frame, as in this example, and is therefore removable, the frame should also be checked for damage. Broken wood or loosening glue connections can glued with wood glue and the frame slightly braced. Please work very carefully here so that the frame does not break. Rebuilding the frame requires considerably more effort.

After any new paint is required, the acoustic fabric can be put on. This is covered with a large protrusion (do not tension!) and the frame is placed. The frame surface is usually rough, so that the fabric can be pulled without creases and “sticks” to the frame. However, do not stretch the acoustic fabric too forcefully. It is enough if it is wrinkle-free and does not sag.

A staple gun is required to secure the fabric. To do this, fold the fabric over and fasten it from behind. Gluing is certainly an alternative, but it requires considerably more effort.

Finished! In just a few steps, old speakers were transformed into visually appealing, restored speaker boxes with a great sound.