Cracked some bug SSC CGL
Found for euro circuit board - To the electronics forum
2 - understand electronics - understand electronics
Quote: peter1980 wrote on 28 Apr 2021 18:39: As I said - the current divides [...] or divides 5V into 1.7 and 3.3 V but you said it doesn't really make sense. I have it like that not said. I have a circuit here that needs a fraction of 5 V and there is a voltage divider built in. Because only a few mA are needed, e.g. the 1.67 V and 3.33 V each go to an operational amplifier that is connected as a voltage follower. Voltage follower means nothing more than a 1: 1 amplifier. You can work out why this is necessary. A load is nothing more than another resistance.
Quote: So I can calculate the partial currents, power consumption, voltage drop and what else do I know - I have been able to do this for years and can use it exactly ...
3 - Replace battery pack game controller - Replace battery pack game controller
Quote: Had thought that one circuit board with a mini USB input plug which then passes the power on to the contacts via two cables. But one of those circuit board or device I have not yet been able to find during my research circuit board there won't be imho for something like that. Do you have to tinker something yourself.
It's not about an adapter, is it? If it were ready from China for a couple Euro.
If necessary, you could also cannibalize one end of a micro USB extension here.
But first I would clarify which voltage the Nintendo Virtual Boy controller needs. see above ...
Defect: voltage regulation
Device type: TNG40
Measuring devices: multimeter, oscilloscope
For weeks now, I've been trying to repair a "Brand" Voltcraft TNG40 laboratory power supply that was given as a defective gift years ago (you have a lot of time at home thanks to Corona).
Yes, I know that I can buy such a power supply from eB * or Am * for around 80 Euro can buy - for me this is a kind of handicraft reminder of my first apprenticeship a few decades ago ...
Symptom: The output voltage can practically not be regulated: Minimum approx. 6.5V, then quickly increasing to 57V. The nominal 40V are reached with a potentiometer setting (R18 (0-47k)) at approx. 3.2k Ohm. The voltage limitation LED lights up continuously; Current limit LED is off.
The relays for switching the secondary coil connections switch correctly (the second circuit board "2226.2" in the device should be ok). The two LEDs D4 and D5 light up slightly; the negative voltage for the OPV is -3.2V and in my opinion it fits. Supply voltages are OK.
So far, the operational amplifier (B2761D) was defective and replaced ...
I am having problems again with my HAMEG 512-4, which I had for a couple in 2004 Euro and was able to revive it from this forum with the help of perl and high_speed.
Circuit diagrams for this model can be found here:
A few weeks ago, after a long break, I used the oscilloscope again. There were problems with the triggering of the 2nd channel. The automatic did not work as usual. I then on the X-circuit board 4 tantalum beads of the Schmidt trigger were measured and after the pins were re-soldered, the automatic triggering of the 2nd channel suddenly worked again. I then ordered and installed 4 new tantalum capacitors.
In the meantime I had bought a Philips function generator with defects on ebay and repaired it (contact bouncer, burnt resistor, on / off switch defective and cracked or brittle switch buttons).
The variable capacitors of the input divider of the HAMEG had obviously been turned in and out wildly at some point, so that I thought, a ...
Defect: starts up briefly
Device type: VK 140
Knowledge: Related occupation
Mothers around 20 years old Vorwerk VK 140 no longer likes
the motor starts briefly 3-5 times and then stops completely,
the switch back to off and then the same game again.
what can be the problem here?
- the circuit board (my online search suggests this)
- the engine itself or
- any other switch / probe / sensor?
the question now is:
- Get a spare part yourself and try to repair it (circuit board costs between 50 and 100 Euro)
- bring / send to Vorwerk Service or
- buy a new vacuum cleaner
Unfortunately, I don't have any tools around here on site
to open the vacuum cleaner or something to measure ...
uploaded a short video on Youtube
7 - No more water draws - Bosch Maxx 6 TitanEdition washing machine
The Aquastop hose to be renewed is then used with approx. 50 Euro rather make up the lion's share.
However, this machine can also be operated without the Aquastop (i.e. with a completely normal inlet hose). After connecting to the water supply, check whether the filling valves are working (start the washing program or the test program). If it works, save yourself all further effort and just continue washing without the Aquastop.
I'm the new one with no plan😂😅
All kidding aside
I have a little problem with one circuit board, you really make me give up 😥
I bought a pc water cooling from the company corsair on eBay classifieds for really little money (it was sold because there was no more flow) I disassembled the pump and cleaned it, so the flow works again
Only a little mishap happened to me while disassembling it
I have it circuit board separated from the coil for the pump
And now I can't get them together anymore
Two extremely short dune wires go up from the coil (I think these need to be attached to the circuit board)
But how do I get them there they are really short
Is there a possibility to somehow extend the wires
(I really have little idea about soldering).
But water cooling now costs 150 Euro would be a shame if this could not be repaired 😥
Thank you for tips and tricks 😍 ...
But I couldn't find any suitable cables in the shop.
If I do it for 5 Euro would have found each piece there, I would have ordered 20 of them.
But I can't find it anywhere in the shop.
I have now completely desoldered the socket and the cable directly to the circuit board soldered and even if it is frowned upon here, the cable is fixed in several places with a glue gun and it works.
Just wonder why I couldn't figure it out myself and why I wanted to hold onto the socket like that.
Maybe slept too little.
Sometimes you can't see the tree for the forests.
At least that's the best way to do it and it's also the cheapest and easiest method. ...
10 - Search these transistors / Mon - Car radio daewoo car radio
Today's time is strongly influenced by China - Korea or whatever for countries that produce 50,000 pieces here and then sell them to someone, who then offer each piece so cheaply that a repair won't even pay off in 100 years.
I get pretty much once a month offers from over there with new devices, specially bred for various German car manufacturers, touch display with navigation and and and, a device then costs 24US $, of course I would have to lose weight, but think about it after $ 24!
Nobody will sit down and repair such a device during the guarantee period where there are no parts or even a circuit diagram anyway, the only one that is there is in the manufacturer's drawer.
And I'm the last one who always throws everything away, I try to keep it because here the device does not cost $ 24 but several 100 Euro.
I always see it that way for me, when I repair something the owner is happy and I have earned something from it, only ...
To your questions: Yes, the potentiometer was turned up during testing. Enclosed the back of the circuit board. The soldering points on the large (largest) capacitor don't look that good - it was changed once - but they are ok.
I checked the connection from the bass to pin 14 and 15 on the IC - it's ok.
The (adjustable) resistance from the potentiometer comes from the circuit board at.
In order to find out whether the signal of the bass filter can be found at PIN 12 and 11, I have to use a (relatively low) sine tone as input so that I can measure something there with a simple voltmeter, right? There is sure to be an app for sine tones, but I've really never done anything like that! Well, at some point it's always the first time ...
PS: Unfortunately I don't know anyone who "gets along a little better with it" and would do it free of charge. Because it is not worth having a professional repair it - the part costs less than 100 when new Euro. I also enjoy doing repairs myself ... especially when it ...
Several attempts to order the part from Technisat have failed. On the phone you are harshly rejected with the slogans "We only sell to specialist dealers ..." Spare parts companies on the Internet can do that circuit board but not deliver because it is sold out. What to do - besides taking the device to the recycling center? Is it possible to have the codec chip exchanged somewhere? But I think that will jump the budget completely - right?
(It's really a shame because the display is flawless ...)
I haven't got a circuit diagram until today, otherwise I could try to follow the audio lines.
In any case, I am totally disappointed with the Technisat service. I had better experiences with Pioneer / Panasonic. Obviously, you have not yet understood with them that the customer is king. In any case, I will no longer pay Technisat surcharge. Others can also TV - and much cheaper - where the devices are now all disposable.
Instead of several hundred Euro for a new refrigerator, the whole thing has now cost us less than 2 €. ...
Defect: Almost without function
Device type: CINEMA DISPLAY 23 "
Knowledge: minimal knowledge (Ohm's law)
Measuring devices: multimeter, oscilloscope
Good afternoon dear forum,
I have little practical knowledge of the subject, I am a physicist in the school service. I want to change that.
A few days ago I came across an old Apple Cinema Display 23 "from around 2005, which only gives a single sign of life: if you connect it to a computer via DVI, it recognizes itself. Otherwise nothing happens. Is the device with the Connected to the transformer, neither the control LED lights up nor is there any other sign of life.
If you connect the original power supply unit, you can do this directly on the transformer but also on the cable circuit board goes to measure 24.5 V. That's nice. But if you connect the connector to the mainboard, then there is a complete voltage drop. The Apple transformer sends currents of 3.8A, 1.7A, 0.9A, 0.4A, 0.2A and 0.1A through the board in 0.5sec pulses.
At first I suspected the transformer was defective, because this happens more often with the model. So I got myself a standard 24V 90 Watt DC power supply, which ...
Defect: part open circuit board burned un
Device type: TKSuperEco 8116A3
Name plate line 1: N ° 856011103030
Knowledge: Completely from the subject
Measuring devices: multimeter, appliance tester (VDE 0701/0702), phase tester, Duspol
Hello forum readers,
I have a problem with this heat pump dryer, so far I have been able to isolate the error, i.e. what is defective, only I have problems with the name because the Internet does not know the component.
It's about the IC U5 on the controller board in the secondary power supply (picture attached) GZ531 or 6Z531 from ST
Who can tell me where I can get this IC from? or whatever is the replacement for this, this IC makes a short circuit of 40 ohms to ground on pin 1 + 2 on the voltage side, which sizzles a few components further a 180 ohm resistance to itself.
I can replace the complete control board, but it is not cheap and this IC will not be a 5 Euro cost, who can tell me where I get it from or what it is exactly, maybe a data sheet of it would be great from you.
Thanks in advance
You have to measure the NTC at different temperatures and receive different measured values (according to the characteristic). An NTC with a static resistance value does not work.
Edit: Thanks for the hint with the NTC 0207, I had also overlooked it, or rather thought it was an STB.
[This message was edited by: silencer300 on 3 Jan 2020 22:57] ...
Defect: interior lighting / plantine
Device type: HT5HBP7
S number: HB73AU540
FD number: 05 FD9109 00 100
Knowledge: Related occupation
Measuring devices: multimeters
Good Morning all,
I wasn't there when my wife switched on the oven, which caused the interior lighting to break and the fuse to blow.
After switching on the fuse, the stove worked again (without the lamp).
So I bought a lamp and turned it in and ... nothing does not work. Lamp checked, is ok. Voltage measured at the socket, nothing is present.
So the stove was removed and a look at that circuit board shows nothing good.
Diodes are probably burned out.
It probably has something to do with the lamp, but what can I do to make the lamp work again?
I don't have any (used) online circuit board found ... and ~ 300 Euro (or more) I didn't want to pay if possible.
Thanks for a little input.
It will probably have been a one-on-one LiteOn job for Whirlpool. Build 100,000 pieces, done. No public sale, so Whirlpool 124 Euro for one circuit board desire.
I'll probably try to find out something about Lite On, but I don't really have much hope.
Presumably at the end it is “125 Euro or it stays that way ”.
Do you share my opinion that it is really the display itself when a segment fails? The components on the back all look unsuspicious - how do you check something like that? Unfortunately, everything is buried under protective varnish ...
Now I have examined the door lock of the second 704 (which I had given me at the time): the lower switch behaves the same way.
That's why I built in the keypad of the second 704 times. This has the property that the start button often does not click into place and is therefore not suitable for families and spouses, but somehow it had to go on. The arrangement of the contact points is a little different, but I just followed the numbering and the connectors fit. Screw holes too.
Now the machine is running again, especially with 30 ° C dark colored laundry.
Nevertheless, WaMa is so important to us that I looked around and found a WDB 030 WCS at Saturn, 200 Euro below list price (original packaging, brand new). Delivery is announced for Thursday. Probably I could still cancel, but since the repairs on the 704 are increasing, it might not be wrong to buy a new one.
The circuit board I left the key switch as it is and re-soldered all the contacts from the back. The soldering points saw ...
I have a circuit board with a line that is lifted. It's still on, but I have to glue it on. After that I have to solder something nearby. For this I need an epoxy adhesive that is heat-resistant (180C or higher) and non-conductive. I can't find a place in Austria that sells something like that. Unfortunately, I only know r-g.de, with over 10 Euro Unfortunately, there is no shipping cost - because I only need a small amount. I would like something like Loctite 9492, Loctite 9497, Circuit Works CW2500, MG Chemicals 9300, Hardman # 04004, or similar, but other things would also be good. Are there any German or Austrian products of this type?
Do you think DIP-Tools KLEBFIX could work well here? https://www.amazon.de/DIP-Tools-KLE.....JW7P/
I would be happy to hear from you.
P.S. I have no idea in which forum this topic belongs - hopefully I'm at the right place. Otherwise please postpone ...
But thank you for your effort anyway.
Maybe someone else has a tip for troubleshooting or troubleshooting. The circuit board looks good. It's just weird that one machine worked perfectly before and now shows the exact errors of the other machine. So I assumed that she would save them. ...
i am currently searching for a college project
3-axis gyroscope / accelerometer
The choice fell on the MPU6000 very quickly, because it is so
is common and can do anything I need.
It struck me, however, that you can use the IC as a single IC
difficult and it is also quite expensive ...
So 5 to 10 Euro the piece
So how can it be that I get the whole circuit board With
get the same IC for only € 1.40?
For testing it is best to unsolder and apply a voltage (usually 12VDC) corresponding to the label to the relay coil and measure the continuity of the working contacts. But I would consider this effort at a unit price of just under 2 Euro save and replace the relay immediately without further test setup.
Quote: Well, Perl, why does a resistor simply smoke off during operation?
Maybe after 6 years of high thermal fluctuations in the € 20 toaster due to old age?
I say yes, I urgently need the input voltages circuit board measure ... when you have nothing better to do ...
So far, the part has cost you less than a cent a day.
Of course, that changes immediately if you buy any part for yourself 5 Euro Have to order shipping costs.
Not to mention the wasted time.
I soldered the relay points, circuit board Reinstalled and let the program run 30 degrees. Duration about 1 hour. unfortunately canceled again after 30 minutes with error E66. I have the impression that the laundry is not warm. Today at noon did not reach the desired 90 degrees but it warmed up.
The Plaine costs 250 on the internet Euro, unfortunately too expensive for me and the risk is still there to go broke again.
I took photos of the relays, where do you get them? if it is the relay?
You do not need to commission customer service, according to the manufacturer's specifications, they may only provide the complete service circuit board replace, but not individual components on it. That would put you at around 200 Euro facilitate. So repaing yourself is the order of the day.
After my email inquiry at Miele, the answer came after eight days that I could get a replacement circuit board at the "special price" of 150 Euro send. I accepted this offer and the part was delivered within 24 hours. It was already 200 hours of operation, but it works flawlessly.
If the chip comes, I'll definitely try the old one circuit board to repair. Maybe it'll work. ...
Quote: How would you best (safest) tap the voltage from the connector CB257? I have no idea what it looks like.
The conductor tracks A and B to the connector are wide enough and there also seems to be space at the top to retrofit e.g. a 1.3mm soldering nail
(Attention! Put soft wood underneath the soldering nails otherwise there will be hairline cracks in the afterwards circuit board. And if the soldering nail sticks out on the soldering side, file it off after soldering).
There are insulated plug-in shoes to match the soldering nail, but even normal bare goods with shrink tubing over them should do the trick.
The connection is not constantly plugged in or subjected to mechanical loads, but only disconnected in the event of a fault.
You can certainly choose more professional looking solutions. Is there any ...
How small is "insanely small"? It looks like 0805 to me. That can still be soldered quite comfortably. Two soldering irons with a fine, but not TOO fine tip (0.8 to 1.2) for unsoldering, fine solder (0.5), desoldering braid and, if necessary, a reading aid for less than 5 Euro from the drugstore. A soldering iron is also sufficient for soldering. ...
It was that circuit board. Got a used replacement circuit board from eBay classifieds, including shipping for 27 Euro. And now the machine is running perfectly again !!
When looking for the replacement circuit board, it was helpful to know which Miele machines are all the same circuit board have (see list below).
Many thanks again to you friendly helpers!
Control electronics for Miele dryers
If the normal pins are not folded under the IC, and the grid dimension is not too small, thread a single thread of a stranded wire (e.g. from a loudspeaker cable 0.75 sqmm or a little thinner) through behind the leg so that a loop is formed.
Then heat the leg (maybe just flux on it, no solder) and pull out the loop forwards between the leg and the circuit board. In doing so, the copper wire strips off solder (separates the connection) and, because of its thickness, also bends the pin a little bit away from it circuit board path. (*)
Quote: a pair of pointed tweezers or something like that https://www.mf-dental.de/Instrumente/Kueretten-Scaler/
The Chinese man sells the instruments of torture as "Dental Pick" made of stainless steel Euro or Eurofuffzig in a set with a mirror or other torture tools.
I found another picture of what e ...
Defect: No function, does not work
Device type: W5801 WPS Home Care XL
S number: 57/116191054
Name plate line 1: W5847 W5801WPS HCXL
Knowledge: Related occupation
Measuring devices: Duspol
after my wife set the start delay to early in the morning, the machine died for us. The next day, nothing worked anymore, it can no longer be switched on.
Disassembled the machine.
- Line filter measured -> OK
- A switch checked -> OK
- 230V arrives circuit board at
- I measured the bridge rectifier, but it doesn't get 230V
- Door slammed as described here, I have already tried it
Got the circuit board now lie here on the table.
Unfortunately I don't have a circuit diagram. On the circuit board Nothing can be clearly seen, except for the green colleague that has a small crack on the side (see picture).
That will probably be a ceramic resistor, do I see it that way? If it should be defective, how do I know what was inside?
The washing machine is from 2011. There is no longer any guarantee.
I just want to repair it ...
If it should be rebuilt, we need useful photos of the drive and the circuit board. And that is legal, not stolen images from the network, like the one already deleted above. ...
Defect: light goes out after a while a
Device type: DA 249
Knowledge: Minimal knowledge (Ohm's law)
Measuring devices: multimeters, appliance tester (VDE 0701/0702), phase tester
In the case of the above device, the lighting is switched off from time to time after a short period of use.
I assume that the
Power electronics EL 754, MIELE 5527064 is responsible for this.
These circuit board costs you only 190 at Miele Euro.
Two questions -
Is there a possibility to buy that at a "normal" price?
Does someone have something like that lying around?
or - can I somehow "bridge" the part
If I see it correctly, it is "only" there to convert the voltage to 12V and to make the whole thing dimmable.
I don't need the dimming ...
The circuit board has continuous power and three connections from the main electronics.
Greetings and thanks for the information ...
This thread helped me to fix my dishwasher and I would like to thank you for that!
I found a different dishwasher, but almost identical control electronics as in unlimited's case.
For me, the LNK364PN and the inductance L1 were also broken. Both have burst. The former so that you could no longer read the name on the chip (LNK364PN). I have the parts in a set on ebay for 5 Euro reordered (I was looking for LNK364PN) and was able to successfully repair the dishwasher by replacing the parts.
My dishwasher is a TEKA TGS 603 FI
On the circuit board was standing:
V1. 0 AC220-240V XWJ
Furthermore, the circuit board
You can find a picture of mine in the attachment circuit board before the repair.
Thank you again and best regards,
Defect: fan runs continuously c3
Device type: EH78S501 / 09
FD number: 8804
Knowledge: Minimal knowledge (Ohm's law)
We suddenly noticed on our stove (around 10 years old) that the fan was running continuously. even after a night with the fuse switched off, it ran again immediately after switching it on. After a few days, an error message c3 appeared and the two right-hand plates no longer worked.
siemens customer service wanted for 150 Euro Replace the ntc, if it wasn't for a maximum of 349 Euro the circuit board (elin).
there was a similar case here in the forum
this made my wife try this on our stove as well. she has brought a large pot of water to the boil on one of the plates on the left and this then ...
If I had known beforehand that thing 40 Euro + Tax costs I would not have touched the old part. But since that is the complete control of the refrigerator, I can easily go from 150 to 500 Euro went out.
After my previous anger with Liebherr and the fact that you have to lend a hand to a refrigerator that is barely four years old, I have to say things have smoothed out a bit. The circuit board It took a two-minute phone call to get it. Not sure how that would have gone on a Samsung.
Thank you very much for the tips, I'll probably do the same next time. I'm just a hobbyist
Yes the circuit board (BOSCH / SIEMENS 00489765) is still available, but you don't really want about 180 Euro spend on it. If the displays are completely dead, the switching regulator IC and the (protective) series resistor from the power supply unit on the control module are usually defective. These parts do not cost 5 EuroIf you are thinking about a used module for the machine, the most important criterion is the exact correspondence of the complete E number of the dispenser device. The electronics cannot easily be reprogrammed in the event of deviations.
Costs just under 180 Euro (gross) directly from Siemens ...
The actual production price should be around 10-15% ...
The control electronics are defective. The circuit board behind the control panel costs 260 Euro.
Have refused a repair for the time being.
I was advised to buy a new one, because the next thing to do is to wear out the bearings and coal. A valid point, I think.
What do you think I can do that circuit board get cheap elsewhere? Only find circuit boards for the XLM 1420 in the bay.
Can someone just as cheaply exchange the coals and bearings and would this make sense?
[This message was modified by: TobyH on 18 Jul 2017 8:36] ...
Defect: Control board defective
Device type: coffee grinder
Knowledge: Minimal knowledge (Ohm's law)
Hello dear forum members,
my Mahlkönig Vario Home coffee grinder no longer grinds. A countdown is still shown on the display, but the engine will no longer start. When I opened the mill, I noticed two defective resistors on the control board.
There is a new one circuit board 110 Euro I would like to replace the rectifier diode D4 and the resistors R6 and R7.
The forum member zuizac apparently once had a similar problem:
From the original post, the picture is the working one circuit boardbecause I couldn't find a high resolution picture on the internet. I would be very happy if one of you knew which resistors and which diode it is ...
silencer300 wrote on May 15, 2017 7:37 AM:
The EPG number must be identical in any case, other identical circuit boards may also work by chance, but it is not certain. BSH remains silent about this.
Thank you Silencer300.
Now have one circuit board for 80 Euro receive.
After a little thought, you would have to come up with it yourself, because on the circuit board is a processor and it is programmed depending on the machine.
But I also think that many different machines work with the same circuit boards if the connectors serve the same peripherals.
Water inlet salt sensor, water level sensor ... As soon as all sockets and plugs lead to the same periphery, the circuit board function.
I hope now that through the Oxidized circuit board peripherals are not defective either. since I'm on the circuit board I couldn't find a component myself that was (is) broken, I now hope that I just found nothing and the problem still appears on the circuit board lies.
Thanks again to everyone.
Pump disassembled, with electric magnets circuit board dismantled, everything blown out with compressed air, cleaned with brake cleaner, blown out, 15 min at 50 degrees in the oven (to dry). Everything reinstalled. Then she ran ...
about half an hour. Then again error 14. So started again ...
Just running, let's see .......
Defect: cools too much
Appliance type: Miele K9557 iD
S number: 82-081178075
FD number: Index 20d
Knowledge: Minimal knowledge (Ohm's law)
Miele K9557 iD
cool not right. In the organic fresh compartment I have minus degrees, otherwise it gets too cold in the refrigerator. At the very bottom, the ice oozed out of the evaporator.
I suggested defrosting the cupboard, but that didn't help, it iced up again.
Then I set the temperature warmer (higher) via the control and selectively set the temperature in the organic compartment higher. No success.
The refrigerator is cooling down too much.
I have replaced two temperature sensors (a) evaporator sensor and b) on the side. Feeler above Syropor is not suspect, was not exchanged.
All without success, the refrigerator does not cool properly as described above.
Now I have read out the data from the refrigerator. I have read out the following values from the temperature sensors using various key combinations. These are as follows:
EO = 11 (corresponds to the temperature setting on the display)
E1 = 1
E2 = 2 ...
what would you recommend??
Do you mean the circuit board where the program button is on it?
In the bay they offer a rep service for 30 Euro I would still invest that or does someone have another idea or desire to repair it for me?
Thank you for the information.
The heating element that is now installed is OK, the value determined during the continuity test is correct.
The error message appears immediately after switching on the washing machine.
Can the built-in relays be reordered somewhere?
These could be desoldered and then replaced if necessary.
The built circuit board costs around 180 as a spare part from Bosch Euro ...
[This message was edited by: Waschi66 on Apr 13, 2017 7:54 am] ...
Quote: Then the distortion will arise quite far up in the amplifier train, even before the volume control. Woman would guess, wouldn't she? But the tone control is NOT done before, or in the course of the volume or balance control, - i.e. before the signal reaches the power amplifier.
Here the sound network is a part of the negative feedback LS output <> differential amplifier in the output stage itself (so basically reminiscent of tone control circuits in output stages with AÜ - e.g. tube technology or early transistor technology)
If you know that, it's like aspirin for those who attempt the observations with conventional circuit technology in the back of their minds
Quote: - regardless of the volume
- gets considerably worse when the highs ...
Defect: LS flies - power module
Device type: SD6P1S
S number: 01112
FD number: 9111
Name plate line 1: SX66T096EU / 43
Knowledge: Related occupation
Measuring devices: multimeter, phase tester, Duspol
The above mentioned GS suddenly threw my fuse. The device is almost 6 years old.
After removing from the kitchen, dismantling the housing, liquor storage and power module. I already noticed a well-known smell that was confirmed when the power module box was opened.
In the power supply area of the circuit board there was a really nice fireworks display. I think the attached pictures speak for themselves.
As you can see it has a complete trace of it circuit board melted, if not everything is wrong between the HFE8 relay and the coil?
The question now is ... is that repairable? Can I assume that the rest of the GS is still functional or will the damage have shot up other things?
One possibility would be a new power module for approx. 144 in the Siemens spare parts shop Euro to acquire. But it says very clearly, unprogrammed, iServ ...
Today I traced the cables from the heater. These go directly into the control board. There are 4 relays - but apparently only 2 of them are relevant. These are solid with the circuit board soldered. Lt. Bauknecht customer service does not give the relays individually. Just the complete one circuit board for approx. 150, - Euro, which should / must then be programmed by a specialist (price plus another approx Euro).
Greetings Frank ...
I will attend the circuit board no further "tinkering"
- The two capacitors were not the reason for the defect (not alone)
- Display is dead - I can't check either
- check remaining semiconductors - not feasible, diodes yes, the rest not
The initial "functioning after knocking" was also a long time ago, that may not have become so clear. When I connect the watch now, the only thing I get is the strange beeping sound from the buzzer, nothing else, the display is completely dead, no flickering, just dead. I also have pressure in various places on the circuit board exercised, nothing ...
Maybe I can get for a narrow one Euro a replacement switching clock
otherwise the oven works manually.
Since it is my second oven, the clock is not vital.
At some point, however, it will be the first oven for my son (when he moves into his first apartment) and then the oven would be completely better.
So last question:
Where can I get such a timer and how expensive is it?
Actually, only the installation dimensions have to be correct ... ...
Measure NTC, should be in the kΩ range at room temperature and the resistance value must decrease more or less sharply as the temperature increases.
The quickest way to find the heating relay is to track the conductors on the circuit board from the heating module plug to the relay. In order to be able to test the relay reliably, it would be advisable to unsolder it. However, at a unit price of approx. 2 Euro I would not install the old relay again, as it has been in operation for over 8 years.
Defect: error code F3
Device type: GSF 80 Power WS
S number: 854841222710
Name plate line 1: WGPH
Knowledge: no knowledge of the matter
Had the error code F3 on our Bauknecht, according to the forums here and according to our own determination, heating defect. Since a repair seemed too expensive to us, a new Bauknecht was ordered straight away. This came and disappointed.
We decided to repair it after all. As a car mechanic, however, I have to watch out for white goods! Thanks to this forum and many Bauknecht / Wirlpool articles, a new heating element and the associated relay was installed on the circuit board ordered. A friend took over the redemption of the relay, the heating element was modified by myself.
In short: everything reassembled, first test run in the basement with error message Fb, second test run ran through. The machine is now back in the kitchen, washing again. My wife just says that the dishes are now a bit clammy after washing. Maybe after the next runs, since everything was shaken up vigorously for transport and repairs.
Part cost 65 Euro, Praise the wife: priceless ...
Thanks for your tips. ...
Dalex says elmatech has taken over the service.
Elmatech says there is for 30 Euro a circuit diagram of the device, but not the circuit board; this is definitely not included, nor is it available anywhere.
My plan now would be to take the part to an electronics technician who will replace the components and replace the dented conductor tracks with wire.
Is that practicable?
The data sheet is available HERE
I only offer that circuit board at !
Without RAM and CF card!
Function is tested and given.
OS can be Windows CE or XPe.
The asking price is 25 Euro per piece including shipping.
Depending on the number, you can put the reed contacts on one circuit board bring
Terminals for the circuits and LEDs on them ready. Built in a case and good. I don't think it has to be 1.5 sqmm either. With transformers you have sometimes up to 5 A / sqmm. So 0.8 or 1 sqmm should be enough.
Only the TO must be clear for 3 Euro and there is no such thing without work.
But money plays a minor role for boat owners ...
ok, how can I fix this, can you recommend a cheap transformer that is suitable for this?
and how do I connect the whole thing and also the audio switch circuit board?
I don't know enough about that, I just shot the phono amplifier a little cheaper on ebay, and thought that I wouldn't get 100 again Euro have to spend, now of course I get much higher
thought wrong ...
but I can recommend the phono amplifier, the sound is really good, despite the fact that I connected it incorrectly. I think if it is connected correctly the quiet hum from the phono board is probably gone even at a higher volume. but the switch circuit board hums really very loud, but it only has 2 connections, so I can't really see through it yet ...
so I would be really grateful for your help.
My Yamaha looks like this from the inside (see picture)
And if I got that wrong, it's about them circuit board which is upright on the left in the housing.
At least that's that circuit board that I photographed.
According to my little hi-fi shop on the corner of 150-180, a repair should be carried out Euro costs.
I think it's pretty steep for a 50 cent part and 5 minutes of work, which is why I wanted to try it myself.
You will get one a lot cheaper circuit board not received, have you already thought about repairs on your own? (Measurement and soldering work required) The possibly defective components on the power module are (in total) well below 10 Euro.
My name is Jan, I am 36 years old and a hobby electronics technician. I am someone who likes to repair and not throw it away and buy new. I have been dealing with SMD soldering technology for 3-4 years and have also achieved very good results.
I have recently started working with BGA soldering technology. In addition, I treated myself to an IR station. The device comes from the Far East, but makes a very robust impression. It has 1200 watts (800W bottom heat, 400W top heat) and I think it's fine for my current uses. Of course, I would prefer an Ersa system with automatic placement and an X-ray system, but I don't need to explain why this is out of the question in the hobby area. I now have around 1000 in total Euro invested in the BGA history, including reballing stencils, etc., which is little in the BGA area, if you look at it as a hobby, but is again a lot.
Of course, I have watched countless YouTube videos on the subject and I quickly discovered that it is not as easy as it looks. There are people who repair laptops with hairdryers and the simplest home remedies. But who knows what isn't fake ?!
At the moment I am working with scrap metal ...
Quote: butt connector
Thanks for the very extensive answer
So I did the following yesterday. I bridged the plugs that the cable tie is supposed to connect and made a first test. Lo and behold, suddenly the error "Flushing flashing" stopped coming. So it looks like the machine is running again. I still have two things before I can close the topic:
I still don't understand the cause. I have a burnt plug, blown fuse, melted relay, and a break in the wiring harness. What was the cause and what was the result? Or is something else broken ?!
The correct cable lugs still have to be insulated and "hard-wired" and then the machine does not have to run for 30 seconds, but rather complete an entire wash cycle to the end. I can't do that until the weekend or whenever, but we ...
Defect: Flashes: 50 °: 1x; End: 3x
Manufacturer: AEG FActiveAA Sensorlogic
Device type: 45_2 DDS 04
S number: 34093607
FD number: PCN 911 232 543 02
Knowledge: Related occupation
Measuring devices: multimeters, phase tester
First of all, kudos and many thanks to this forum.
Even if it says "just arrived" on the left, I've been reading here for a long time. And this reading caused me a lot of trouble and Euro saves:
- does not heat: circuit board re-soldered
- does not heat: circuit board re-soldered to the other pin (why not like this? )
- Water in the floor pan: water pocket cleaned
- does not heat again: relay renewed
- flashes water supply: (searched for a long time, is probably on the corner valve. Have to wait.)
Meanwhile I have a (sad) routine in unscrewing the housing parts.
But now I can't find an answer to my problem using "Search":
A few seconds after the program has started, the 50 ° LED flashes regularly and the program end LED 3x -> should be: water in the floor pan.
The floor pan is dry like the Sahara.
Quote: A quartz (6000 Hz) is available. Will probably be 6000 kHz.
Quote: What does he need the height potentiometer for? Density of the gas? Yes.
With other devices this is called pressure compensation.
The lower the pressure, the fewer the particles to be measured are in the measuring volume, which is of course constant.
The measured value then falls in absolute terms, although the exhaust gas still contains, for example, 5% CO.
The gain is therefore increased somewhat as the pressure decreases.
Quote: I also don't know what kind of sensors are in the analysis chambers.
the solution is there. It was actually the triac. Changed, and lo and behold, everything works again.
Some people told me that it couldn't be the triac because it was still possible to partially control the machine in the far too high speed range. But puff cake.
What I also noticed: the new triac has about 14 MOhm between A1 and A2, the old one only 0.8 - that might have been telltale.
Now I stupidly have all the capacitors on the circuit board reordered and a total of 20 Euro spent that shouldn't have been. Has that been completely nonsensical now, or should I still change them someday?
And as far as the triac is concerned: I've now taken the second "stupid" one that Conrad had in stock, so without a "W".
Would the BTA16-600CW improve something for me?
What I also noticed: R25 is getting pretty warm, almost hot - normal?
Thank you all
[This message was modified by: jetski on 28 Jul 2016 18:35] ...
I have the following problem:
I have purchased a used circular saw.
Type 250/2800 DNB
Year of manufacture 1994
Voltage 380 V
Fusing 16 A slow
Unfortunately, I relied on the seller's insurance to keep the saw running.
Now when trying it out, the following problem arose:
The saw only runs when I hold down the green power button.
I let go, it goes out.
I opened the switch box and looked inside.
To see and smell nothing scorched.
There is one circuit board is installed, I am unsure whether the fault is a mechanical one in the switch, whether it should click into place, or whether there is, for example, a fault in the circuit board is present.
Then you could possibly have it checked by a specialist.
Or whether the problem could be in the engine.
I do not want to simply renew the switch on suspicion, there are prices of 170, - Euro called.
Does anyone have any advice?
Many Thanks. ...
I celebrated my birthday yesterday and this morning another present for me.
As was said, the carbon brush module was not inserted correctly. That was the mistake, thanks again for the info ...
Before I measured the brush module, it works fine, plus the fuse on the circuit board and the changeover relay. At the electronics store around the corner there is a replacement type for the relay for a fabulous 1.58 Euro..
I'll do another one now circuit board on which the fixed voltages (currently soldered onto perforated sheet metal) and the temperature-controlled fan control are housed and then it looks clean too. The front panel should be made of black acrylic glass. I bought 1 m² (5mm thick) from (for more money than a power supply unit costs for a large river ). Half a m² is now missing and I've learned a lot again: Acrylic glass is not a beginner-friendly material, the patience of wives is very limited when the terrace looks like a battlefield, good tools are worth the money and, last but not least - I really miss one little talent. Balance: sawed garden furniture, cordless screwdriver over there, desk over, laminate destroyed ...
Defect: dE - charred parts ...
Device type: P1453GW / XEG
S number: X3935ARP700369N
Knowledge: no knowledge of the matter
Measuring devices: multimeters, phase tester
Hello stun guns! -)
Our washing machine is broken. It started weeks ago. It once smelled like scorched plastic. The machine was still running.
Today woman complained: it will never work. Fuse was out.
I could see:
- The door lock is scorched (approx. 30 Euro)
- the "circuit board"(?) behind the control panel was also braised in one place.
I couldn't really get out like that circuit board called?! Is that the program switch?
In addition, I can't find this program switch for sale.
Do you recommend buying a new used washing machine with these defects?
Thank you for your help!
The latter can be recognized by the fact that plated-through holes run from e.g. the top to the bottom into the "void" - i.e. have a connection to a conductor track that is "inside" the sandwich-like structure circuit board lies.
The smoke marks on the condenser and the discoloration of the circuit board lets me guess that there the circuit board has become very warm "from within".
It is very likely that the via on the left from the S2M diode has burned out completely.
Since the "explosion" of a plated-through hole shoots the material "up" out of the hole, there are traces of smoke on the capacitor.
The resulting heat discolors the circuit board material in a red-yellow-brownish color.
This can be seen very well on the first picture https: //forum.electronicwerkstatt.d.....sator.
Is it a multilayer board ...
Got me again today circuit board viewed and followed all paths - in terms of measurement technology everything seems to be OK.
Can I somehow fool the machine into thinking that it is closed, to see if it can be the switch anyway?
Wouldn't like 20-50 Euro spend on a new lock, if that's probably not the reason.
Do you or someone here have a hot tip. how can I bypass this to see whether the machine would then e.g. pump out?
Many Thanks. ...
Defect: corrosion damage, etc.
Device type: VR2334
At a flea market, I got a Philips VR2334 for 3 Euro run up. In principle, the device works and has a better picture than my two older 2000s, the Scart connection is an additional bonus.
However, he has a few ailments: While forward search and pause give a flawless picture, you cannot see anything in reverse. Besides cleaning heads and checking DTF sliding contacts, can you do a lot?
There is a service manual at Elektrotanya, unfortunately only in French and the circuit diagram does not match mine circuit board agree, and absolutely not. Apparently the plan in the SM is for a motherboard with an integrated power supply, for me the power supply is a separate card on the heat sink in the back of the case.
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